36 Hours in Mumbai

One of the greatest influences on our decision to pick up everything and move to Singapore, was the opportunity to explore parts of the world we never expected to see.  Over the last few weeks, I've prepared for the opportunity to do just that, scheduling a brief, yet insightful, visit to Mumbai, India.

After learning of my planned trip to India, I talked to many colleagues and friends in Singapore to understand what to expect.  Nearly every time I mentioned my visit, I was asked "have you been to India before?"   Upon answering "no", I often got nothing more than a smile and hearty laugh in response.....not quite what I had hoped for.  Others, however, gave me some really good advice about what to expect (unbelievable traffic, unimagineable poverty, and unwanted stomach bugs), what to see and what NOT to eat. 

They also told me about the possible medical dangers that awaited me - (hepatitis A & E, typhoid fever, chikungunya, dengue fever, Japanese encephalitis, malaria, leptospirosis, pathogenic H5N1 avian influenza, blue #5, etc.)  - often reciting the possible "contaminations" like they were reading the ingredients off the back of a bottle of hand soap.  So, I decided a visit to the doctor was in order before I departed. 

As an American with a caring, responsible mother, I know I've had my share of vaccinations......but unfortunately, I don't think a single one of them came after the age of.....well....diapers. (not because you didn't take me mom - rather, because I absolutely hate needles!!).  During my visit to the doctor, he too asked if I had been to India before.  I answered, "no" - and awaited the obligatory smile and chuckle.....but I got neither.  Instead he explained I was probably perfectly safe to hop on a plane with no further vaccinations, but suggested I consider a few things before I traveled.



Five (plus 1) Vaccination @ One Sitting = Fun!

As if I was considering additional premium channels for my cable TV hook-up, I listened to the options, nodded my head a bunch of times and watched as the doctor checked boxes and jotted notes.  About 10 minutes, two laughing nurses, a joke about "Delhi Belly" and five injections later, I was on my way out of the office, fairly sure I would now survive my first trip to India.

With all this build up about what to expect, and two shoulders worth of vaccines, I was surprised by what I experienced once I arrived in Mumbai.  Sure, the airport was not on par with Changhi International in Singapore - but it was no worse than JFK (I know, not a huge endorsement). 

There was a noticeable scent of curry almost immediately upon exiting the plane, but aside from that, I could have been at any international airport.  Immigration was fairly easy and a smiling, friendly driver, holding a sign with my name on it, was waiting just outside the baggage area.  So far, so good.

For the first few minutes of the drive toward my hotel, I noticed heavy amounts of dust, trash, dirt and rubble along the road - all obviously a result of the construction underway to connect the domestic and international terminals, right?

No - after another half mile, I realized the dust, dirt and trash were not solely from the construction - rather the entire city seemed to be shrouded in grey - as run down buildings, roadside storefronts, and massive slums spread out in almost every direction.  Residents were everywhere, roaming the streets, going about their lives in what was such a foreign, shocking environment to me.  Some were dressed for office jobs, wearing typical business attire (minus the suit coat.....it's really hot in Mumbai). Others were clearly not heading to an office, and instead were sifting through mountains of trash - looking for.....well, I don't know what they were looking for.

Auto-rickshaw in Mumbai

As we continued our drive, I was reminded of the stories I had heard regarding traffic and driving in Mumbai.  The congested roads were crowded with buses, taxis, auto-rickshaws, bicycles, delivery trucks, people, wild dogs, and yes, even a few wandering "sacred" cows.  Every one of them blowing a horn, ringing a bell, barking or "moo-ing" for the others to get out of their way. 

Now, I fully realize I am doing Mumbai an injustice in this post.  Having only a short business trip scheduled, I did not have time to venture out and see the city's more noteworthy sites, such as the Gateway of India or Queen's Necklace along Marine Drive.  Due to the length of my stay, these tourist sites were not something I was able to visit.  (I look forward to getting a little more perspective and culture on my next visit)

What I did see, however, displayed the vast discrepency between the haves and have-nots - all crammed together in a city of millions, with no real separation from one another.  In other words, there's no "good side and bad side of the tracks" that I witnessed.  Beautiful gated homes, gardens, and resorts shared borders with slums, run down buildings, and open space - often littered with trash, cows and children playing soccer or cricket.

Slums and Resorts - Exist Literally Side by Side

I also had a chance to enjoy a little taste of local culture and cuisine.  In general, everyone I met was very kind, welcoming and hospitable.  This included airport employees, service personnel at the hotel (not a huge surprise), shop keepers and the customers and partners I met with during the visit. 

During my trip, I was constantly offered a taste of local food - which I often turned away.  Not because I'm not a fan of curry (which I am not, coincidentally) - but because we had a family weekend trip planned to Bali two days after my return to Singapore to celebrate Cooper's 7th birthday. A case of "Delhi Belly" was not a risk I wanted to take before the family getaway!    Eventually I gave it a go, hoping for the best, and tried some of the local food.  Realizing my hosts were surely giving me options of moderate heat level, I was surprised at just how hot (spicy) the food was.  Atomic wings, 911 wings - whatever you think is hot in the US, I'm fairly sure it's got nothing on real Indian food.

While the food was decidedly hot - the women of the Bollywood style enteraintment I witnessed were decidely "not" (my opinion).  It was, however, very entertaining to see the crowd cheering for the Bollywood Stars who danced and sang (lipsynced) to local "hits".  All in all it was a very interesting, eye-opening experience and one I thoroughly enjoyed.

Following the entertainment, and with about 3 hours before my flight, I headed to the airport.  I was glad I did.  The drive at night to the airport was even more enlightening than the daytime commute.  Same players on the road (buses, rickshaws, taxis, bikes, cows and dogs) - but this time half with headlights, half with none - all somehow avoiding each other as they completely disregarded traffic rules and did whatever got them from point A to B the quickest. 

Upon arriving at the airport, I enjoyed a true taste of third-world country "innovation" - or lack there of.  First, my taxi arrived at the gates, after passing the first level of security (inclusive of two military trucks, each housing a machine gun turret).  Then I enjoyed a 30 minute wait, in 100 degree temperatures, slowly making my way to the second level of security....required to enter the airport.  Several machine gun toting soldiers (probably 17-19 years old) kept the crowd in order...but I have to admit it was a little unnerving.  There were hundreds of people - some were passengers, others were crying relatives waving goodbye to sons and daughters leaving Mumbai.  Still others seemed to be just hanging around.  I know I'm being dramatic, but the scene was reminiscent of the chaos just prior to a suicide bomber revealing himself in an episode of 24! 

Needless to say, I was pleased to be inside the airport - at least there was a hint of air conditioning and I could sit down and relax after a long day of customer and analyst meetings.  The red-eye from Mumbai to Singapore was a welcome opportunity to catch some sleep, but not near enough to feel refreshed and to prepare me for a day back in the office.  All the same, it was good to be back in Singapore and to see the kids, take a shower, and "wash off" my 36 hour trip to Mumbai.